I suspect that this is due to back EMF from the power being cut to the primary circuit of the ignition coils. I can tell the arduino is detecting that this is going low because the Red LED comes on. D2 is going LOW when the switch is wide open. Once I connect the ignition wires to the MOSEFT, I start to experience false detections. This works as expected, the bulb is turned off for a 60ms period. I have connected this circuit to my bike, with a 12v bulb connected between the drain and source of the MOSFET. The Arduino will put everything back to the original state (MOSFET on, RED off, Green on). After a short period of time (60 ms currently). Once the Arduino detects a LOW signal on pin D2 (when the sensor has been activated), the green LED will be turned off, the red LED on pin D8 will be turned on and also a HIGH signal will be sent out of pin D11 to the MOSFET driver, this will turn off the P-Channel MOSFET and cut power to the ignition coils. The sketch on the Arduino is configured to light up a green LED, connected to pin D9. My circuit will connect to this circuit at point C, and also I will cut the wire between points A and B and connect them to my board. This is not exact, just my interpretation, I cannot change this bit of the circuit anyway. Here is a diagram of the ignition system of the motorcycle. I have managed to create a circuit on some stripboard which will cut the ignition when a sensor is activated. The engine is mounted into a racing sidecar chassis. If you end up building one for ease document and write it up for the group.would be very interesting to watch how you get on.I have been working on building a DIY ignition interrupt module for a 4 stroke motorcycle engine.

But for my street use, even though very fun I decided to not pursue it. It WOULD be cool to be able to WFO shift it, and I can see the attraction for sure to the road racer type who is looking for hundredths of seconds and anything to reduce the fatigue of a long race. Having a Factory Pro shift star and GP shifted TL short lever mine shifts quick as heck now, and it would only make it easier to shift quickly going to the QS and not really make things all that much faster.a little for sure, but at the potential risk of the transmission should the timing be wrong or it malfunction and I jam a gear without unloading the drivetrain. Another way is to hook a rear pull-type brake light switch via a spring to the shift lever that will activate once the lever moves a bit.but setting it up would take some trial and error I'd imagine until you get it right. The best way to me looks like a strain gauge in the shift rod that senses not movement but pressure being applied. Sure.you could certainly build your own if you're handy with the electronic stuff, but how you activate it might cost some coin. I thought about getting a QS over the winter, and after much thought decided to pass on it.

Diy quick shifter switch